When I sat at my computer to write this post about a recent adventure, I wasn’t sure where to start. I thought ‘is anyone interested in walking France’s Stevenson Trail with a donkey?’ It’s virtually unknown in the United States, let alone a sought after vacation.
But Europe is a different story. Stevenson is a popular trail in South Central France, with an estimated 6,000 hikers annually, many with a donkey. The furry companion carries backpacks and sometimes tired little children accompanying their parents on the walk. I realized it’s a trip you may want to take.
Let’s start at the beginning. The Stevenson Trail follows the path of Robert Lewis Stevenson, author of Treasure Island. He and his donkey Modestine forged the 150 mile path in 1878 when it was largely inaccessible. Their 12-day adventure is chronicled in his book published the following year, “Travels With a Donkey in the Cévennes.”
Fast forward 147 years. I was scrolling through Instagram and came across an influencer who walked the exact trail while living in France; although without a donkey. She walked it alone. Not organized with a group.
My plan was hatched, only I was going to replicate Stevenson’s exploration and hire a ânesse — donkey — to lighten my load.
The journey, although magical in many ways, took me way out of my comfort zone. I came to find out when meeting fellow hikers along the way, this feeling was mine alone.
Planning the Walk
The hiking season is May to October, with summer being the busiest. A handful of tour companies offer route planning, accommodations with meals, and detailed directions/maps. I chose La Pèlerine because they are one of the most established for the Stevenson.
La Pèlerine provides shorter itineraries for those not exploring the entire trail. I was only walking four days because I had another hiked planned afterwards in nearby Provence with my husband.
All correspondence is via email. My initial inquiry was to the owner, Samual. Angelique joined at the planning stage. I contacted the company in July for a hike beginning October 2nd. Give yourself plenty of time for correspondence. Keep in mind French vacations, time change in responding to emails, and holidays we’re unaware of in the US.
Also, the French lifestyle is slower than ours, which is one their allures.
Within a week La Pèlerine will have an itemized route and cost proposal for the allotted number of walking days. A large majority is written in French, but can be translated upon request. I used Google translate with much success.
Count on roughly $250 a day for the itinerary, route support (if needed), lodging with private room/bath, breakfast and dinner. Lunch is on your own at a cafe or market in one of the villages along the way.
Donkey Rental
The donkey rental is separate. I used Âne Azimut located at the hike’s starting point in Le Monastier sur Gazeille. Owner Christophe specializes in ânesse for the Stevenson Trail.
You’ll meet your four-legged companion on the first morning of your trek. La Pèlerine reserves a room for you the night before at the Auberge Bïn Vendüd Châ Nous, walking distance from Âne Azimut. This inn is wonderful! Owner Claudine and her family are some of the finest human beings you’ll meet. Her husband, Chef Marco, cooks amazing dinners. I felt so welcomed.
Christophe reviews how to care for your furry friend. The equipment includes a mat and packsaddle for carrying, a halter and lead rope, bags to place luggage, a long rope for relaxation, and a toiletry sac. You’ll learn how to pick hoofs and brush the coat for cleanliness. While the donkey can carry up to 70 pounds, my backpack weighed 23.
Christophe imparts sage wisdom before leaving. Take heed! Donkey’s are clever and stubborn. They will test you. Gentle but firm leadership from the start will make them a good companion and not a brat. I came to find out the brat part rung true, even with stern guidance! Keep this in mind if you choose to have one accompany you on Stevenson Trail.
I started the hike with Keicha, a 20 year old female. It was evident she wasn’t feeling herself and wanted to rest constantly, so day two Christophe came to get her and brought me Igor. Both had the quintessential donkey traits.
My cute but frustrating friends’ rental was $85 a day, including a pasture and food at each gîte, plus pick-up at the end of the trip.
The Route and Gîtes
La Pèlerine maps out the voyage à pied (walking trip) step-by-step. They provide a booklet outlining daily starts, finishes, ascents, descents, refreshments and toilet stops. Their directions are excellent with landmarks and focal points.
The trail is marked with short white-over-red horizontal stripes on signs, trees, rocks and poles.
Day one is short with only seven miles to Goudet. This allows you and the donkey to learn each other’s pace and needs. Kaicha’s distraction with every flower and blade of grass made for slow going. My coaxing didn’t speed her up.
Subsequent days are longer, with the maximum distance for my four day hike being 19 miles on day three. Terrain is varied with rocky, dirt paths and some asphalt roads. Postcard-worthy scenery accompanies the hike.
Quiet hamlets with stone buildings dating back hundreds of years are beautiful. It truly is charming personified.
I’d be amiss if I didn’t mention the trek is remote. Walking extremely rural meadows with no one in sight caused me great angst, wanting to rush through portions to arrive at more populated areas. Almost impossible with a stubborn donkey. There are alternate, non-remote routes walking along two lane roads. I opted for this later in the walk.
Gîtes are reserved ahead of time for you and the donkey. These are usually rural family stone cottages or farm houses where they rent rooms, including breakfast and dinner. It’s similar to B&B’s in the US.
When you arrive at the end of each day, the owner shows you the donkey pasture and your room. You feed your buddy his grain and barley supplied by the owner. Afterwards, there’s time to freshen up before dinner is served in the dining room with fellow hikers.
It’s very fun to share tales from the trail over a delicious meal with others who are trekking the path. All were from different parts of Europe.
At a dinner one evening I divulged my trepidation walking alone. Without hesitation, each person, men and women, said there is nothing to worry about. Unequivocally they said mais oui it is safe. Two women at the table said they’ve hiked the area for years with no problem.
France is different than America. Women can engage in activities alone without fear of harassment. I met solo female hikers in the gîtes who were walking other trails. They weren’t worried. Many said they hike alone regularly.
It was my American paranoia that created concern for me when out in the wilderness. I carried pepper spray and a loud whistle. Both were unnecessary.
If anything, it’s the opposite. Fellow hikers were friendly, helpful and generous. They’ll share snacks and shortcuts. One French couple I met at a gîte invited me to walk with them. We had a blast!
This was the blueprint each day. The people you’ll meet on this slow adventure will be one of the highlights along with rolling highlands, vast open spaces, and yes, even the donkey.
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