Palermo, Sicily’s Vibrant Capital

Sicily is made up of nine provinces, with Palermo being the largest. It’s layered Byzantine, Romanesque, Moorish and Spanish architecture attests to the capital’s invading countries over the centuries. To this day, substantial Tunisian and Moroccan diasporas called Palermo home.

As with many cities, the heart of Palermo is their outdoor market selling local wares and food. One of the oldest is Ballarò.

While a bit chaotic, it accurately represents life here. Vendors shout, customers bargain, and the air is filled with local flavor. You walk along cobblestone streets among wooden tables.

Taste the regional dishes. Arancini is a must. Deep fried rice balls are filled with meat, tomato and cheese. Other variations include prosciutto, pistachios or spinach. The name means “little oranges” because of their shape and color. The more saffron in the rice, the deeper the hue.

Food walking tours are great fun and the guide will stop at vendors you may otherwise miss. Any language barriers will be remedied with a local tour director. I recommend Palermo Original Street Food Walking Tour by Streaty. They have a five star rating. Here is the link to reserve. 

A five minute walk from the market is Quattro Canti — four corners. It’s a square in the heart of the historic center where two main streets intersect, dividing the historic center into four districts. The buildings’ facades are matching baroque, but each has a different marble statue from 1661 perched on the front. It’s truly beautiful.  

The area is filled with cafes and shops. Snag an outdoor table, order coffee and watch people stroll by. 

Attending the opera or ballet at Teatro Massimo should be on your itinerary. Built in 1897, it’s the largest opera theater in Italy with 1,381 seats. Originally it was designed for 3,000 spectators, but modern safety regulations reduced the seating. If you can’t score a ticket while visiting, make sure to take the guided tour. Fun fact…final scenes of The Godfather III were filmed here.

Another option is attending a piano recital offered in neighborhood churches.

The venues are small and intimate. There is usually one performer who plays classical music of Bach, Liszt, Mozart and the like.

Take time to meander around and see where locals live. I came across Piazza Marina pocket park across from a church. It had a gorgeous ficus tree towering over the square. 

Visiting a palace is de riguer when in Europe. Sicily’s Palazzo dei Normanni is just the place. It was deemed a UNESCO site because of it’s extraordinary cultural fusion that developed in medieval Sicily. Once a royal residence, it now serves as the seat of Sicily’s regional parliament. 

Walking tours are available that include entry tickets and a guided visit to the palazzo. Here is the link to reserve.

This is just a snippet of the culture and art Palermo has to offer. Don’t hesitate to explore other areas. 

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