There’s a reason Canada lands on travelers’ “top 10” destinations list. Vibrant cities, 16 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, a French speaking province and coastal charm. But if it’s natural beauty you want, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island are definitely the country’s crown jewel.
Located in Eastern Canada, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island (PEI) are part of the Maritime provinces.
They are easy to reach from the United States. Ferries leave Bar Harbor, Maine and arrive three and a half hours later in Yarmouth on the southern tip of Nova Scotia.
I suggest you rent a car in Bar Harbor. The ferry accommodates vehicles. Once arriving in Yarmouth, you can explore the 21,000 square mile territory and PEI at your own pace.
Here are must-see sites along the scenic byways.
Lunenburg
A three hour drive northeast of Yarmouth sits this all time favorite enclave of travelers, myself included. One of the UNESCO sites, the tiny 18th-century fishing village hugs Mahone Bay. Original colonial homes once occupied by tailors, doctors and ship builders are painted in bright, multi-colors evoking storybook charm.
A highlight is Bluenose II, a 181-foot racing schooner sitting in port.
She serves as a nautical ambassador, promoting the province’s maritime history through deck tours and harbor sails. Her popularity is evident with the vessel’s image adorning license plates and even the Canadian dime coin.
Where to stay: The Riverport Inn B&B
Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse
Tucked on the shores of St. Margaret’s Bay an hour and a half north is this famous spot with it’s landmark lighthouse dating back to 1915. It’s perched atop wave-washed granite boulders making it a beautiful photo op.
Art galleries, tours, and hikes abound. Or just kick back on an adirondack chair overlooking the vistas.
The quintessential village with shops-a-many and historic significance draws close to a million tourists a year.
Lobster caught off the coast is served in the restaurants. Fun fact: the largest lobster caught in Nova Scotia was in 1977 and weighted 44 pounds!
With Halifax being less than an hour away, I suggest you overnight there instead of Peggy’s Cove.
Halifax
The capital, Halifax, with it’s half a million residents is the largest city in Nova Scotia. It’s comprised of nine regions, each with a unique personality. The most visited is downtown due to the two and a half mile walkway along Halifax Harbor. Beer gardens, playgrounds, farmers markets, museums, food halls, casinos, shops — there’s a bit of everything. Miguel and I celebrated our wedding anniversary wondering the colorful, gritty and undeniably cool area.
Wanna go where the locals go? Head to the West End, a mix of rural and urban. Quinpool District is home to the restaurant King of Donairs, selling the namesake official food of Halifax. It’s very similar to a gyro; pita filled with spit-roasted shaved beef, tomatoes, onions, and — here’s the difference — a sweet and garlicky donair sauce.
North End is a hub of culture and creatives.
There’s a big public art and music scene. Trendy cafes, vintage clothing stores and award winning dining make it popular with the younger crowd.
Citadel National Historic fortress overlooks the city. At 12pm listen for the daily cannon-fire known as the “noon gun,” a ritual that’s been happening every day, except Christmas, since 1857.
The best way to experience this city is walking and taking public transportation. Get out and explore.
Where to stay: The Pebble B&B
Next, hightail it two hours north to Pictou. Here you’ll catch a car ferry to PEI. The capital city Charlottetown is the largest with 38,000 people who call it home. Not far from here is the legendary Anne of Green Gables house from the classic novel of the same name.
The whole island only has 108,000 residents making it Canada’s smallest province by land mass and population.
There is a new trend called “townsizing.” Travelers are choosing small towns over big cities, giving the destinations a chance in the spotlight. PEI is perfect for townsizing with its tiny hamlets. Here’s a couple to check out.
SOURIS
Located on the eastern side of the island, it’s home to many “best of” on PEI. One of those being the Greenwich National Park with three hiking trails varying from secluded woods to open beaches.
The most interesting path starts along a dirt trail that veers onto a raised boardwalk through the forest. It then drops down onto a floating boardwalk meandering across deep blue Bowley Pond until it reaches huge sand dunes along the ocean. It’s truly beautiful!
Oysters are a delicacy in Souris. Warm, shallow, food-rich bays and estuaries provide excellent growing conditions, creating a high demand around the world. So find a shack shucking the mollusks and enjoy a few.
ELMIRA
Elmira is the eastern start of PEI’s Confederation Trail which runs 170 miles across the island to the west coast. Built on a former railway line, the flat path is ideal for biking, running or just strolling. It passes along sea shores, farm pastures, sunflower fields, towns, and more. Walk a small section, or if feeling ambitions cycle from end-to-end.
Close to 250 interpretative panels in English and French line the path. Together, the main trail from Elmira to Tignish and it’s branch trails are one lengthy collection of architectural, historical, and geographical facts and stories.
If you’re up for a bigger challenge, a 435-mile walking route recently opened circumnavigating PEI’s idyllic coastline on foot. The entire loop takes about 32 days to complete if walking 12 to 15 miles a day. But perhaps that should be tackled on another trip.
Where to stay to access both locations: The Inn at Bay Fortune
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